A weekend on the Mekong Delta

I didn't have any intentions of traveling after my first hectic week in Vietnam. My original plan had involved finding my feet and getting my barings in sprawling Ho Chi Minh City through a bit of urban exploration.

However that was not to be the case.

Over the course of the first week I had clicked with two tall germans, David and Yann.

These two had "steven bradbury'd" first prize in a video competition under dubious circumstances (voting corruption) and won themselves the chance to study at Rmit Vietnam.

After virtually two encounters that week we had agreed upon undertaking a trip to the heart of the Mekong Delta, the city of Can Tho.

I had very little idea of any itinerary for this trip, the instructions were basically, "meet at uni and we'll work it out from there".

Our chosen method of transport was the scooter. The most sensible vehicle for Vietnam's lawless traffic. David had purchased a scooter already which he would share with Yann, I still required a noble steed so we headed to a garage in the centre of Saigon to pick up my ride.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m46ZWMFMyAM

For roughly $10 AUD a day I now had my very own bike and helmet. And all it took was leaving my passport with a complete stranger I barely knew or understood.

With a full tank of RON 92, 6 hours of sunlight and exactly 5 minutes of scooter experience, I was ready to begin the journey.

We aimed to make it to a Home-stay in My Tho before sunset, about 17:50. I estimate the trip took roughly 6 hours all up. The first two hours of driving are a confronting and dizzying crawl through the urban limits of Ho Chi Minh City.

The roads are fluid, rivers of scooters flow incessantly while heavy vehicles blast through at speed. The law of maneuverability is relied on heavily in Vietnamese transit. Basically if it is easier for you to move out of the way it is your responsibility to do so. On a scooter, you are the smallest vehicle on the road, the bottom of the food-chain and the blaring horns of trucks and tour buses is a constant reminder. If you don't give them space they will go right through you. And I don't say that for dramatic effect.

As of 2015 South East Asia accounts for 25% of global road deaths. And just to scare my mum even more when she reads this pedestrians, cyclists and users of motorized 2 wheeled vehicles are the most fatal demographic on the roads in south east Asia. (WHO 2015)

SOURCE: WHO 2015

Gradually we broke away from the cramped outer suburbs and concrete gave way to rice fields and banana trees. We stopped at one of the numerous high way rest stops after about 2 hours on the road, marking the halfway point for the first leg of our journey.

These roadside stops are absolutely everywhere and serve as a genuine oasis, punctuating the long stretches of highway.

They generally consist of a covered, shaded area. Hammocks, clusters of plastic table settings and a kiosk where you can buy refreshments and some form of a meal. They vary in terms of size and offerings but all share a very relaxed vibe and we greatly appreciated their convenience.

We arrived at our home-stay as the light was beginning to dim. Happy Farm home-stay in Tien Giang is a collection of huts nestled within lush foliage. Fruit hangs from every tree and a plethora of animals roam around freely. We decided to check out the nearby Vinh Trang pagoda before dinner back at the hostel.

After a sweaty night under mosquito nets we awoke early to begin the next leg of our journey. After a pleasant stint of riding along the backroads of Tien Giang province our journey lead us to Vinh Long or Cai Be, it's hard to tell. It was a riverside town with a large market which snaked around the narrow streets selling various wares.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sIIfb7DRVYI

After this stop followed the most dramatic leg of the Journey as the long highway stretched over the vast rivers forming the mekong delta, known as the 9 dragons, eventually arriving in Can Tho.

It was very late in the afternoon by the time we arrived at our hostel. We filled the rest of the evening exploring one of the numerous tributaries which splinter away from the mekong delta. A cracked walking path traces along the bank and offers a candid view into the lives of it's inhabitants.

We enjoyed a coffee while the sun set at the Iconic 1985 cafe and took our time photographing the flooding streets. During rainy season this is a nightly occurrence, the water reaching almost knee deep and remaining there for up to 3 hours.

We then meandered through some atmospheric old backstreets as we made our way to the glitzy waterfront. With a number of eye catching light installations the boulevard is filled with people young and old enjoying the night and it was a really pleasant experience.

That night we booked a floating market tour through our hostel and then tucked into our bunks ready for the 5:30am start the next day.

The floating markets are the main tourist draw-card for Can Tho and I feel your perspective of the market would be heavily influenced by which tour you choose to take. Our tour was very intimate and boutique. 6 of us were taken out on a narrow, single hulled fishing boat with a local guide and driver who was extremely friendly and insightful.

From our boat we circled the market a few times, stopping for beside merchant watercraft for fruit, a breakfast of noodles and of course a Vietnamese coffee, all covered under the price of the tour. From there the tour took us to a local orchard as well as a traditional rice noodle "factory". Both were thoroughly enjoyable experiences.

The tour wrapped up around 11:00 and after some delicious local treats prepared by our hostel hosts, It was back on the bikes and a grueling 6 hour ride home to bustling Ho Chi Minh City.

Dusty, greasy, with a cosmic sunburn and a sore bum, my first Vietnam adventure was complete. And it won't be the last.

-T

All videos and images were captured by Tom Hogan using a Canon 600d or google pixel 1.